Liepāja packs more genuine interest into a small city than most Baltic towns its size. The extraordinary pipe organ at Holy Trinity Cathedral stops most visitors in their tracks, but the real revelation is Karosta — the vast tsarist naval base and Soviet military district north of the centre that has been slowly decomposing since the early 1990s. Add the city beach, the lighthouse, and a lively local music scene, and you have a city that rewards a full day or two.