Iași is the cultural capital of Romanian Moldavia, a lively university city in the northeast of the country, close to the border with the Republic of Moldova. It served as the capital of the Principality of Moldavia for centuries and remains the intellectual heart of the region.
The centrepiece is the neo-Gothic Palace of Culture, an enormous building on the site of the old royal court that now houses four museums — the Art Museum and the Museum of Moldavian History are the most worthwhile. Budget more than a quick visit; the building alone is impressive. The city is home to Romania's oldest university, founded in 1860, and the large student population gives Iași a youthful energy that many Romanian cities lack.
The old town rewards wandering. The Church of the Three Hierarchs (Trei Ierarhi), dating from the 17th century, has an extraordinary exterior entirely covered in carved stone patterns — no two panels are identical. The Golia Monastery and the Metropolitan Cathedral are also worth seeking out. On the main boulevard, the Iași National Theatre — the oldest national theatre in Romania — stands next to the National Opera, both active and accessible.