Craiova is the main city of Oltenia, set on the plains of southwestern Romania. It is less polished than Transylvania's showpiece towns, but it has enough culture and civic confidence to reward a spare day: a handsome art museum, a serious theatre, a large romantic park, and a centre built for strolling.
Start in and around Mihai Viteazu Square, where fountains, civic buildings, and the Craiova Art Museum sit close together. The museum is housed in the former Jean Mihail Palace, one of the city's grandest buildings, and its Romanian collection includes early works by Constantin Brancusi. Nearby, the Museum of Oltenia gives the region its own context through history, ethnography, and natural science displays.
The best reason to linger is Nicolae Romanescu Park, a broad landscaped park south of the centre with a lake, bridges, wooded paths, and a slightly theatrical romantic style. Craiova also has a strong performing-arts streak: the Craiova National Theatre Marin Sorescu hosts major productions and anchors an international Shakespeare festival.
Craiova works well as a stop between Bucharest, the Danube, and the Jiu Valley. It is not Romania's prettiest city, but it feels lived-in, regional, and more substantial than a quick rail-change town.