Piatra Neamț is the capital of Neamț County in northeast Romania, south of Bukovina. The town sits in a natural amphitheatre of forested mountains along the Bistrița River, and the setting alone makes it worth a stop. Neamț County claims the highest concentration of monasteries per square kilometre in the world, and the painted monasteries of southern Bukovina — though technically in neighbouring Suceava County — are within day-trip distance.
The town centre is compact and pleasant, with a mix of medieval and communist-era architecture. The Princely Court (Curtea Domnească) dates from the 15th century, and the Church of Saint John the Baptist nearby is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the finest examples of Moldavian ecclesiastical architecture. The Clock Tower and the History and Archaeology Museum — strong on Cucuteni prehistoric pottery — round out the town's compact sights. Neamț Monastery, about 12 km west, served as a model for Moldavian churches for over a century.
The surrounding mountains offer good hiking in summer and skiing in winter at the small resort of Durău. Thirty-five kilometres west, the Bicaz Gorge is one of Romania's most spectacular mountain roads, cutting through a limestone canyon to Lacul Roșu (Red Lake) and the Transylvanian passes beyond. Piatra Neamț is a good base for exploring this part of Romania, quieter and more authentic than the more touristed towns further north.