Saint Michael's Castle

Saint Michael's Castle — also called the Mikhailovsky Castle or Engineers' Castle — is the deep terracotta-coloured fortified palace built for Tsar Paul I in 1797–1801. It is unmistakable: a four-square pile with a moat, a chapel topped by a spire, and a distinctive red-orange colour that legend says was chosen to match the gloves of Paul's mistress. Inside, the rooms now belong to the Russian Museum and house a rotating display of 18th- and 19th-century Russian portrait painting.

The castle is just across the Moika from the Field of Mars and only a few minutes' walk from the Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, so it slots easily into a day around the upper Nevsky. The Bronze equestrian statue of Peter the Great on the south side — by Bartolomeo Carlo Rastrelli, father of the architect — is older than the more famous Bronze Horseman on Senate Square but far less seen.

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A story
Tsar Paul I had the castle built as a fortified residence because he believed — correctly, as it turned out — that he was in mortal danger from a palace conspiracy. He moved in in February 1801 and was strangled in his bedroom forty days later by a group of officers. The site of his bedroom is now marked inside the building, which since 1820 has been a school of military engineering.

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