Cortegana is one of the prettiest villages in the Sierra de Aracena, a hilly, wooded corner of northern Huelva province that feels a world away from the Costa de la Luz. The village is large enough to have a few shops and bars, and the climb to the top rewards you with a well-preserved medieval castle dating from 1253 and views over the surrounding oak-covered hills. The 14th-century Iglesia del Divino Salvador, with its Gothic-Mudejar tower, stands at the heart of the village below.
The area is known for its Iberian ham — some of the best in Spain comes from the Jabugo area, 15 km north — and for its birdlife. Black storks sometimes nest near the village, and imperial eagles soar over the surrounding dehesa. Cortegana makes a good base for walking in the sierra or simply for slowing down.