Grazalema is one of the most picturesque white towns of Andalucía, perched at 825m in the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park about 120km east of Cádiz. The village is a maze of narrow whitewashed streets, baroque churches, and flower-filled balconies, focused on the Plaza de España and the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Aurora. It also receives more rain than anywhere else in Spain, which explains why the surrounding mountains are so dramatically lush.
The Natural Park is the main reason to linger. The Pinsapar — a protected forest of Spanish fir on the slopes above the village — is one of only two remaining stands of this ancient species in Spain; access requires a permit from the park office. Other walking routes fan out across the sierra: the Garganta Verde gorge, the climb to El Torreón, the dramatic rock outcrops of the Salto de Cabrero. Vultures nest in spring and some walks are restricted during the nesting season.
The road from Grazalema to Zahara climbs to the Puerto de las Palomas at 1,350m — the second highest pass in Andalucía — with extraordinary views in both directions. Don’t miss the local version of gazpacho serrano, a thick mountain soup served at the restaurants on the main square.