Setenil de las Bodegas is the strangest and most memorable of the White Villages. Instead of simply climbing a hill, the town burrows into the gorge of the Río Trejo, with houses, bars, and lanes tucked under enormous shelves of limestone. It is not subtle, and it does not need to be.
The famous streets are Calle Cuevas del Sol and Calle Cuevas de la Sombra. One catches the light, the other sits under a darker overhang, and together they make Setenil feel less like a built town than a negotiated truce between people and geology.
Above the cave streets, the old fortified quarter gives the visit some historical balance. The Church of Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación and the Torreón del Homenaje sit on the upper ridge, where Setenil becomes a more familiar Andalusian hill town.
Setenil is a natural stop on a white-village route from Ronda or Arcos. It is small, but do not reduce it to a photo stop. Walk both levels, eat under the rock if you can get a table, and leave before the narrow streets make you impatient with other visitors.