A specialist museum that turns out to be charming, housed in the Bendaña Palace in the upper old town. The collection of playing cards — among the most important in the world — ranges from 15th-century hand-painted decks to industrial 20th-century printing. The labels are surprisingly engaging and the layout is good.
The palace itself, with a Renaissance courtyard, is worth the visit even if cards bore you. Combined ticket with the Museum of Archaeology.