Möllevången is Malmö's most diverse neighbourhood, a working-class district south of the city centre that has become the city's food and counter-culture hub. The Möllevångstorget square is the beating heart of it: a market selling fresh produce from around the world, surrounded by Middle Eastern bakeries, Vietnamese restaurants, falafel shops, and small grocery stores stocked with ingredients you won't find elsewhere in Sweden.
The neighbourhood's politics are on the left — anarchist bookshops and political posters sit alongside African hair salons and Turkish tea houses — and the atmosphere is relaxed and genuinely multicultural. It is the best place in Malmö for a cheap, excellent meal, and the place to come if you want to understand why the city thinks of itself as more cosmopolitan than Stockholm. Walk through on a Saturday morning when the market is in full swing.