☰Salts Mill, Saltaire

Sir Titus Salt's enormous mill, built in 1853 beside the River Aire and the Leeds–Liverpool Canal, is the centrepiece of Saltaire — a complete Victorian model village that is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The mill stopped producing textiles decades ago and has been transformed into one of the most surprising cultural spaces in Britain: two floors are devoted to a permanent collection of David Hockney's work, accompanied by design shops and an excellent café. Walking the village streets around it, past the workers' cottages, the church, the institute, and the park that Salt built instead of a pub, gives a vivid picture of Victorian paternalism at its most ambitious.