Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo

Twin Pacific coast destination pairing planned Ixtapa resorts with Zihuatanejo's working fishing bay.

Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo sit side by side on Mexico's Pacific coast in Guerrero state, about 225 km north of Acapulco. They are two very different places sharing the same stretch of coastline. Zihuatanejo is the original fishing village — a crescent bay lined with small hotels, seafood restaurants, and the daily theatre of the fishing fleet heading out and returning. Ixtapa, a few kilometres north, was purpose-built as a resort in the 1970s: hotel towers along a wide beach, a golf course, a marina, and the full apparatus of packaged tourism.

Most travellers find they want both. Ixtapa is fine for lying on Playa El Palmar with a cold drink and watching parasailers, while Zihuatanejo's waterfront — especially Playa Municipal and the narrow streets behind it — gives you something that feels like Mexico rather than a resort development. The fish market at dawn on Playa Municipal, when the pangas come in and selling starts immediately on the sand, is one of the most vivid scenes on this coast.

The surrounding area has a string of excellent beaches, from the busy to the deserted. Playa La Ropa is the favourite for swimming; Playa Las Gatas, reached by water taxi, is calm and good for snorkelling. Day trips to the village of Petatlán, with its famous silver-and-gold basilica, reward those willing to get off the resort loop. The rainy season runs June to October; high season is November to April, when the fishing, the weather, and the sailfish runs are all at their best.

Guide

Beaches

The Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo area boasts a host of beaches.

They range from the highrise resort hotel-lined beach in Ixtapa to the deserted Playa Sanctuario de Las Tortugas where you can spend a day and not see another person.

No matter what your preference, the area has a beach that will meet your needs.

Playa Sanctuario De Las Tortugas

No restaurants. No hotels. No beach vendors. No people!

That's what Playa Sanctuario De Las Tortugas offers. It is the perfect place to go if you want a day of total seclusion and relaxation. Nobody there but the pelicans.

First, to get there takes a little work. The beach is located about a mile and a half from the village of La Barra De Potosí. During part of the year it is separated from town by a lagoon that empties into the sea. When the lagoon is empting into the ocean a kayak can be rented.

Once across the lagoon it takes a half-hour walk through coastal scrub to reach the beach itself.

Playa Municipal

Playa Municipal, also known as Playa Principal, is located by the downtown area of Zihuatanejo. It runs from the Municipal Pier to the canal.

The end near the pier is home to the Naval Base. At the other end, by the canal, is the Museo Archeologico, the Archeological Museum. And there is so much more in between.

The zocalo, or town square, is near the midpoint of the beach. On Sunday evening this ishome to the weekly fiesta. Entertainment includes singing, dancing, clowns, and plays. And no fiesta would be complete without lots of good food!

Playa La Madera

Between Playa Municipal and Playa La Ropa is Playa La Madera. This beach is home to several mid-priced hotels and a few restaurants.

The beach is a good swimming beach, popular with locals and Mexican tourists. Nearly every afternoon the beach is home to a soccer game.

At one end is M.J. and Richie's, a great little restaurant serving breakfast and lunch. They have palapas to provide shade and great seafood.

Playa El Palmar

Playa el Palmar is Ixtapa's main beach, along which stretches Ixtapa's Hotel zone. Most of its major hotels are found in this area. Paseo Ixtapa, the resort's main, tree-lined boulevard, runs behind the first line of multi-storied hotels all the way to Marina Ixtapa. On the boulevard you can find a variety of excellent restaurants as well as stores selling beach clothing and accessories, souvenirs and arts and crafts.

There are many activities right on the beach, including banana-boat rides, para-sailing and wind-surfing. The waves are perfect for boogie boards.

Guide

Day Trips

A trip to Playa Las Gatas for a day of snorkeling is a "must do" when in Zihuatanejo.

The trip starts at the municipal pier where water taxis run back and forth between the pier and Las Gatas from about 9 in the morning until 5 p.m. The cost is 30 pesos, or a little under $3 USD for a roundtrip ticket. The trip out to Las Gatas gives some beautiful views of the town and surrounding hills. Sometimes a cruise ship will be anchored in the bay and the water taxis pass very close, giving an interesting perspective of the ship.

Once at the beach, the next step is to choose a restaurant to use for the day. A dozen small beach restaurants run the length of the beach. All of them serve wonderful seafood and cold drinks. They also rent snorkeling equipment, lifejackets, and floating toys for the little ones.

Snorkeling is best earlier in the day. In the afternoon the waves start to stir up the sand and make the water a little less clear. Marine life along the reef is plentiful — sea urchins, damselfish, angelfish, pipefish, eels, and the occasional sea turtle.

Back at the restaurant a bucket of ice and cold beer will be waiting by the lounge chairs under the big umbrella. For lunch most restaurants serve fish, lobster, shrimp, octopus, and other seafood prepared in traditional Mexican style. A full day for two — water taxi, snorkeling gear, lounge chairs, lunch, and beer — runs between $50–75 USD.

For something completely different, the town of Petatlán is an easy half-day bus trip about an hour southeast along the coastal highway. Its pilgrimage basilica is one of the most venerated in Guerrero state, and the surrounding streets are lined with gold and silver jewellery workshops selling at prices well below what you'll find in the resort shops.

Guide

Eating Out

Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo is well-known for it's restaurants.

The specialty in the area is seafood. Zihuatanejo has an active fleet of pangas, small fishing boats,

Contributors July 03, 2005

La Casa Cafe

La Casa Cafe is an inexpensive, tropical courtyard patio with great organic house coffee, cappuccino's, latte, expresso & frappe's. Extensive menu of both American & Mexican food served by friendly wait staff & owners who are very informative of the area.

type: International

[rate it]

accessibility: tropical outdoor patio

tel: (755)554-3469

url: www.lacasacafe.net

address: Calle Adelita, La Madera

PriceOfMenu: 25-50 pesos

email:

Salvadores

Four white plastic tables under a faded blue awning. A small bar with 4 stools. A shelf of paperback books for tourists to borrow. And a man named Salvador with a smile that won't quit. That's Salvadores.

Located next to the canal in the Madera neighborhood of Zihuatanejo, Salvadores is a "hole-in-the-wall" restaurant. Actually, it's outside the wall. The tables and bar are on the patio, the kitchen inside.

Salvadores offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner. They also have a variety of drinks at the bar, including beer and hard liquor. All day long you can enjoy honest, inexpensive Mexican home cooking — fish tacos, chiles rellenos, whatever the catch of the morning happened to be — with Salvador himself usually working the bar.

type: Mexican

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address: Calle Adelita

PriceOfMenu: $2-$8 USD

Tamales Y Atoles Any's

The family owned and operated Tamales Y Atoles Any's has served traditional and authentic Mexican food for almost 20 years. Located in El Centro, the bright yellow building with the tall, thatched roof is easy to spot.

Any's is opened year-round 6 days a week, closing on Sundays.

Tamales are the house specialty, with a selection of more than a dozen varieties. At 12 pesos, these tamales are so big they will satisfy all but the biggest apetite.

In addition to tamales the menu includes tostadas, tacos, enchiladas, soups, and much more.

Pozole, the rich hominy and pork stew that's a staple across Guerrero, is on the menu most evenings and is reason enough to make the trip.

type: Mexican

[rate it]

tel: 554-7373

address: Calle Ejido 38, at Calle Vicente Guerrero

PriceOfMenu: $2-$10