Puerto Escondido is the surf capital of Mexico's Pacific coast, a laid-back beach town on the Oaxacan coast that has grown from a sleepy fishing village into a magnet for surfers, backpackers, and increasingly, digital nomads and yoga enthusiasts. The main draw is Playa Zicatela, a powerful beach break that produces some of the heaviest waves in the Americas — the Mexican Pipeline, as it is known, hosts international surf competitions and is strictly for experienced surfers. The waves here are spectacular to watch even if you have no intention of getting in the water.
But Puerto Escondido is much more than one fearsome wave. The sheltered bays of Playa Carrizalillo and Puerto Angelito offer calm turquoise water perfect for swimming, and the long sweep of Playa Bacocho catches beautiful sunsets. The town has a thriving food scene, with everything from beachfront ceviche stands to Oaxacan restaurants serving mole and tlayudas. The Adoquín, the pedestrianized strip in the old town center, comes alive at night with restaurants, bars, and live music.
One of the most memorable experiences near Puerto Escondido is the bioluminescent Laguna de Manialtepec, about twenty minutes west of town. On moonless nights, tours take you out onto the warm lagoon water where every stroke of your hand or kick of your feet produces an eerie blue-green glow from the dinoflagellates in the water — it is genuinely otherworldly. The Parque Nacional Lagunas de Chacahua, further along the coast, offers more lagoons, mangroves, and a remote beach village accessible only by boat.
Puerto Escondido is well connected by air, with a small airport receiving flights from Mexico City and Oaxaca City. The overland route from Oaxaca City is a dramatic seven-hour mountain drive through the Sierra Madre del Sur, winding through cloud forests and indigenous villages. The town has accommodation for every budget, from beachside hammocks and hostels to boutique hotels with infinity pools overlooking Zicatela. The vibe is relaxed and unpretentious — flip-flops and board shorts are the dress code, and nobody is in a hurry.