Sioux Falls is South Dakota's largest city by a wide margin, a growing plains metropolis built around the waterfalls of the Big Sioux River. Falls Park, where the river drops over exposed quartzite ledges in the middle of town, is the obvious first stop — the pink Sioux quartzite gives the cascades an unexpected warmth, and the ruins of a 19th-century mill add to the scene. The Arc of Dreams, a soaring stainless steel sculpture spanning the river near the park entrance, has become the city's most recognisable landmark.
Downtown has been revitalised around Phillips Avenue and the Washington Pavilion, a former school building converted into an arts and science centre. The SculptureWalk along the main streets rotates annually, and the restaurant scene is better than you would expect for a mid-sized plains city — Lakota cuisine at Watecha Bowl, Vietnamese restaurants reflecting recent immigration, and a handful of craft breweries including Fernson Downtown.
The Old Courthouse Museum in its magnificent pink quartzite building tells a surprising story: at the turn of the 20th century, Sioux Falls was the divorce capital of America, drawing wealthy Eastern clients who took advantage of South Dakota's permissive laws.
Sioux Falls is not a destination most travelers seek out, but it rewards a night or two and is a practical base for trips to the Black Hills or the Badlands, both about four hours west.