Lagoa da Pampulha

Modernist artificial lake ringed by Niemeyer's masterworks and Brazilian football

The Pampulha lagoon is an oval artificial lake on the north side of the city, surrounded by some of the most important modernist architecture in the Americas. In 1940, a young Oscar Niemeyer designed four buildings around its shore — the Church of São Francisco de Assis, the Pampulha Yacht Club, the Casa do Baile, and the Pampulha Casino (now an art museum). Together they invented a curving, sensual version of modernism that became Niemeyer's signature.

A nine-kilometre walking and cycling path runs all the way around the lake, with each of the four buildings about a kilometre apart. The Mineirão football stadium sits just to the north. A morning around the lake gives a fuller sense of why Belo Horizonte matters in twentieth-century architecture than any single building can.

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A story
Pampulha was Oscar Niemeyer's first major commission, at age 33, and Juscelino Kubitschek's first major patronage as mayor of Belo Horizonte — a partnership that would later remake Brazil with the new capital of Brasília. The four buildings Niemeyer designed around the lake in the early 1940s are now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

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