The Casbah is the heart and the history of Algiers. About 100,000 people still live in this dense hillside labyrinth of narrow alleys, whitewashed houses, Ottoman palaces and Moorish courtyards. UNESCO listed it as a World Heritage Site in 1992. The war of independence began here; so did the 1957 Battle of Algiers that Pontecorvo filmed with such unsettling precision.
The lower Casbah, closer to Place des Martyrs, is the easier introduction — the streets are wider and more tourist-oriented, with a few craft shops and cafes. The upper Casbah becomes more residential and more atmospheric as you climb. The best way to see it is to wander without a fixed plan, allowing the maze to lead you. A guide is not essential but does help with the history.