Vila Algarve

Decaying azulejo-clad mansion that served as the secret police headquarters in the 1960s and 70s

Vila Algarve is a striking and disquieting building. Built in 1934 as a private mansion by the Portuguese coffee merchant José Tinoco, it is covered in elaborate blue and white azulejo tiles imported from the Algarve — the most extensive azulejo facade in the country. After the merchant's death the house was rented to the colonial state and converted to the headquarters of the Portuguese secret police.

The building today is an empty shell, its windows broken, its roof partly collapsed, its tiles slowly disappearing into private collections. It stands on the corner of Avenida Mártires da Machava and Avenida Ahmed Sékou Touré, ten minutes' walk from the centre. It is worth a visit, but it is also one of the saddest sights in the city.

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A story
From 1965 until independence in 1975, **Vila Algarve** was used by **PIDE / DGS**, the Portuguese secret police, as their interrogation centre in Mozambique. Hundreds of independence activists were tortured here; an unknown number died. The building has stood empty and decaying since 1975, and there has been a long, slow campaign to turn it into a memorial museum — so far unrealised.

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