Angkor Thom — "Great City" — was the last and most enduring capital of the Khmer Empire, founded by King Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century. The walled city covers nine square kilometres and is entered through five monumental gateways, each approached by a causeway flanked by 54 devas (gods) on one side and 54 asuras (demons) on the other, re-enacting the Hindu myth of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk. The south gate, with its four giant faces staring outward, is the most photographed and the usual entry point.
At the centre stands the Bayon, Jayavarman VII's state temple and one of the most extraordinary buildings in Asia: a mountain of towers carved with 216 giant stone faces, whose enigmatic half-smile has become almost as recognisable as Angkor Wat itself. The Bayon's two levels of bas-reliefs differ from Angkor Wat's: the upper gallery depicts mythological scenes, while the lower gallery records actual historical events, including a naval battle on the Tonlé Sap and the daily life of 12th-century Khmer and Chinese traders. Allow at least two hours at Angkor Thom — more if you plan to explore the Baphuon, the Terrace of the Elephants, and the Terrace of the Leper King, which all occupy the Royal Palace compound to the north.