Angkor is, of course, the main event: plan a minimum of three days to cover the essentials (Angkor Wat at sunrise, Angkor Thom and the Bayon, Ta Prohm, Preah Khan, Banteay Srei). Hire a tuk-tuk driver for each day at your hotel — they know the standard loops — or, for the more ambitious, rent a bicycle and do the inner "small circuit" on your own. Away from the temples, the Cambodian Landmine Museum on the road to Banteay Srei is a harrowing but important stop, run by a former Khmer Rouge child soldier who has spent his adult life clearing mines. The floating villages of Kampong Phluk and Chong Kneas on Tonlé Sap are a glimpse of a very different Cambodian life. And in the evening, the Phare Cambodian Circus — a social-enterprise troupe based in Siem Reap — puts on one of the most entertaining shows in the country.