Phnom Bakheng is a 9th-century temple-mountain built on the only natural hill at Angkor, rising about 65 metres above the surrounding plains. It was the state temple of King Yasovarman I, who founded the first city of Angkor here around 900 AD, and it remains the most popular sunset viewpoint in the entire complex — the long view west across the jungle canopy toward Angkor Wat's silhouette draws large crowds every afternoon, and the park authority now limits the number of visitors on the hill at any one time to prevent overcrowding.
The temple itself, though heavily eroded, has a satisfying complexity: a stepped pyramid with towers at each level and a central sanctuary at the summit. Arrive well before sunset to claim a good position. Sturdy shoes help on the steep western staircase. The morning view is equally good and has far fewer people — Phnom Bakheng at 7am, before the temple tour buses arrive, is a calm and atmospheric place.