The Shiqi district — pronounced "shir-chee" — is the historic urban core of Zhongshan. Wedged between the Qijiang River and the surrounding canals, it predates the modern prefecture by several centuries and retains a network of narrow alleys, small temples, and arcaded shop-houses that survives in pockets between the newer building.
Wander north and east of Sunwen West Road for the best of what remains: laneways lined with herb shops, fishmongers, and tea sellers; small courtyard ancestral halls; and the occasional unrestored qilou. Allow an unhurried morning. There is no single sight to tick off — the pleasure is in the walking.