Mount Hua

One of China's five sacred peaks, with the most terrifying paths in the country

Mount Hua is one of China's five sacred mountains and easily the steepest. From the base at Huayin, 120 km east of Xi'an, five granite peaks rise up to 2,160 metres in cliffs and pinnacles that early Chinese painters used as the template for the imagined landscapes of Taoist immortals. The most famous trail follows the original "Soldiers' Path" — a kilometre of stairs carved into the cliff, in some places so steep you climb hand over hand against an iron chain.

A cable car has made the West Peak accessible to anyone reasonably fit. From there you can walk a long ridge between the peaks all day, visiting Taoist temples and sleeping a night at the East Peak hostel for the sunrise. The longer route up — climbing the Soldiers' Path through the night — is a Chinese rite of passage and best avoided in summer when half the country is doing it.

Allow a long day, ideally a night and two days. Reachable from Xi'an by direct high-speed train (40 minutes) to Huashan North.

things to do sight hiking
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The Chang Kong Cliff Road on the south peak is a series of wooden planks bolted to the side of a vertical cliff, with a chain to clip onto. It was built by Taoist monks in the 13th century to reach a hermitage and is now traversed by tourists wearing rented climbing harnesses, edging sideways with a 1,500-metre drop beneath their feet. There is no Disney-style barrier; people who lose their nerve halfway across must turn around and pass the next person coming the other way on the same plank.

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