The Shwesandaw is the most-visited sunset spot in Bagan, and on most evenings you will find a crowd of photographers on its steep cylindrical terraces waiting for the light to change. The five-tiered pagoda, built by King Anawrahta in 1057 to celebrate his conquest of Thaton, stands near the centre of the old city and commands a 360-degree view over the surrounding temples and the Ayeyarwady beyond.
The climb is short but the steps are narrow and eroded. Go up slowly, and bring more patience than camera equipment — the view is excellent regardless of the crowd. Earlier in the afternoon the pagoda is nearly empty and worth the visit on its own terms.