Ankara divides into two very distinct worlds: the old city of Ulus, with its Roman ruins, medieval mosque, and labyrinthine bazaar, and the modern republican city laid out after 1923 with boulevards, ministries, and the vast Atatürk Mausoleum. Both deserve a full half-day. The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations alone justifies the trip for anyone interested in the deep history of this region.