The Hisar Mosque — meaning "fortress mosque," a reference to the Byzantine castle that once stood nearby — is both the oldest and the most atmospheric mosque in İzmir. It sits within the Kemeraltı bazaar, surrounded by narrow lanes of small shops, and its courtyard has been occupied by flower sellers for as long as anyone can remember.
The interior is modest by Ottoman standards but beautifully proportioned, with excellent Iznik tiles in the prayer hall. Non-Muslim visitors are welcome outside of prayer times. The courtyard, filled with cut flowers and potted plants arranged on every available surface, is one of those places that repays a slow half-hour spent doing nothing in particular.