İzmir is Turkey's most cosmopolitan city — a port that spent centuries as home to Greeks, Armenians, Jews, and European merchants, and that retains a distinctly secular, outward-looking character even after the catastrophic upheavals of the early twentieth century. Its pleasures are spread across several distinct districts: the Kemeraltı bazaar and Konak Square in the centre, the Kordon promenade and Alsancak nightlife district to the north, and Kadifekale and the Agora of Smyrna for ancient history.
Allow at least two full days to begin to know the city — one for the historic centre, one for Alsancak and the waterfront. A third day can be spent on the excellent day trips to Ephesus, Pergamon, or the Çeşme Peninsula.