Polatlı

Anatolian grain town near Gordion and the Sakarya battlefields west of Ankara.

Polatlı is a workaday grain town on the high Anatolian plateau, about 80 km west of Ankara. The town itself is not the draw. The reason to come is the strange, powerful mix of ancient Phrygia and modern Turkish history scattered across the plain around it.

Gordion is the headline. This was the Phrygian capital linked with King Midas and the Gordian knot, and it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2023. The museum, citadel mound, and great tumulus make a strong half day for anyone interested in archaeology.

Polatlı also sits in the landscape of the 1921 Battle of the Sakarya, when the Turkish War of Independence turned before Ankara could fall. The Sakarya Victory Monument, Mehmetçik Monument, and nearby battlefield museums give the surrounding hills a weight that is easy to miss from the highway.

Come with a car or a patient driver. The railway and buses get you to Polatlı easily, but the best sights sit outside the centre, where distances are short on a map and awkward by public transport.