Patras is Greece's third largest city and the gateway to the west. Its busy port connects the Peloponnese to Italy, and for many travelers it is just the place where they get on or off a ferry. That is a shame, because Patras has genuine character if you give it a few hours. The city climbs steeply from the waterfront to a medieval castle, with a tangle of neoclassical buildings, pedestrian streets, and lively squares in between.
The Carnival of Patras is the city's great claim to fame. It runs for weeks before Lent, peaking on the final weekend with a massive parade of elaborate floats and costumed groups that draws tens of thousands of visitors. It is the largest carnival celebration in Greece and one of the biggest in Europe. Outside carnival season, the city has a youthful energy thanks to its large university, which fills the bars and cafes around Trion Symachon square.
The Roman Odeon, beautifully restored and still used for summer performances, sits in the upper town. The Archaeological Museum houses finds from across Achaea. The church of Agios Andreas, one of the largest in the Balkans, holds relics of Saint Andrew and is a major pilgrimage site. Down at the waterfront, the new harbor area has been redeveloped with cafes and a promenade. Patras also makes a useful base for visiting the wine country of the northern Peloponnese or the spectacular rack railway that climbs through the Vouraikos Gorge to Kalavryta.