Dordrecht — Dord to the locals — holds the distinction of being the oldest city in Holland, a merchant town that flourished when the Rhine and Maas rivers converged here and everything passing between the North Sea and the interior had to pay toll. That history left its mark: the historic centre has a compact network of old streets, canals, and gabled merchants' houses that feels entirely different from the purpose-built city centres that came later.
The Grote Kerk dominates the skyline with its 15th-century tower, which, unusually, was never finished — the stub visible today was meant to carry a full spire. Inside there are fine carved choir stalls. The Dordrechts Museum has one of the better collections of Dutch and Flemish masters in the region, with works by Jan van Goyen and Aelbert Cuyp, who was born here and painted the river and the surrounding polder extensively. A short walk along the waterfront brings you to the Drie Rivierenpunt, where the Merwede, the Oude Maas and the Noord meet — a fine spot on a clear day to watch the constant barge traffic, framed by the medieval Groothoofdspoort.
Other highlights inside the old town are the Huis Van Gijn, a preserved 18th-century merchant's house, and the Hof van Nederland, the monastery where the Dutch revolt first declared its loyalty to William of Orange in 1572. To the south-east the city opens onto the Biesbosch National Park, a tidal wetland that is one of the last of its kind in Europe.
Dordrecht is an easy day trip from Rotterdam or Amsterdam and is little visited by foreign tourists, which is part of its appeal.