Zamora is probably the least well known of Spain's grand old cities, overlooked in favour of nearby Salamanca and León. That is a shame, because it is a handsome place on a hill above the Duero River with more Romanesque churches per square kilometre than anywhere else in Spain.
The city was known as "La Bien Cercada" (The Walled One) for its formidable defences, and the steep streets dropping down to the river — crossed by the medieval bridge — are striking. The cathedral, with its distinctive Byzantine-inspired dome, sits at the highest point and houses a world-class collection of Flemish tapestries. Below it, over twenty small Romanesque churches are scattered through the old town, each with its own character — the Iglesia de la Magdalena has the finest carved portal. The Semana Santa Museum displays the floats and vestments used during Zamora's Holy Week processions, considered among the finest — and most austere — in Spain.
The Plaza Mayor and surrounding streets have some attractive Art Nouveau shopfronts. Zamora is easily reached from Salamanca by bus (under an hour) or by train from Madrid.