Badajoz is one of those Spanish cities where you might be the only tourist in town. Sitting on the banks of the Guadiana River just six kilometres from the Portuguese border, the capital of Extremadura's largest province has an Andalusian warmth mixed with Portuguese influence, a Moorish fortress overlooking the old quarter, and tapas bars where a beer still comes with a free plate of food.
The city was founded by the Galician Muslim rebel Ibn Marwan around 875 and spent centuries as a contested frontier town. Its Alcazaba, the Arab fortress crowning the hill above the old town, is one of the largest in Spain. Below it, Plaza Alta and the Torre de Espantaperros hint at the city's Moorish past, while the fortress-like Cathedral of Saint John reflects the centuries of warfare that shaped this border city. The Puerta de Palmas, a monumental gateway facing the 15th-century bridge over the Guadiana, is the city's most recognizable landmark.
Badajoz does not polish itself for visitors. The historic centre rewards wandering, but step outside it and you will find a workaday Spanish city with strong opinions about regional politics and an enduring affinity for neighbouring Portugal. Ask for a beer near the cathedral or around Plaza de España, and the tapas will arrive without ordering. The MEIAC, a contemporary art museum built inside a former Franco-era prison, is one of the best modern art spaces in western Spain.
The city makes a good base for exploring the surrounding region. Merida, with its extraordinary Roman ruins, is less than an hour east. The Cornalvo Nature Reserve and the agricultural heartland of Tierra de Barros are close by. And the Portuguese city of Elvas, a UNESCO World Heritage garrison town, is just across the border.