Sombrerete is a highland mining town in northern Zacatecas, far enough from the main colonial circuit that it still feels like a working Mexican town rather than a polished weekend set piece. Its centre belongs to the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro, the old silver road to the north, and the best streets still have the tight colonial layout of alleys, churches, and small plazas.
The reason to come is the mix of stone and desert. In town, San Mateo Monastery, Santo Domingo Church, and the parish church of San Juan Bautista give Sombrerete its weight. They are not huge monuments, but they have the carved fronts, gold altars, and slightly austere northern character that make Zacatecas rewarding.
The landscape becomes stranger outside town. Sierra de Organos National Park is a field of volcanic columns and freestanding rock towers that looks made for an old western. It is the strongest reason to stay overnight rather than just passing through between Zacatecas and Durango.
Sombrerete is also a good place to eat simply. Look for brujitas, fried corn turnovers filled with beans or meat, and the richer Zacatecas dishes such as birria and asado de boda.