Oahu's North Shore is the antithesis of Waikiki — no high-rises, no resort corridors, just a string of surf breaks, shrimp trucks, and one small town (Haleiwa) that manages to balance surf culture with cafes and galleries. From November through February the coast transforms when 6-10 metre waves roll in and the world's professional surf circuit descends for competitions at Sunset Beach, Pipeline, and Haleiwa Beach.
The drive from Honolulu takes about an hour along the Kamehameha Highway past pineapple fields and smaller communities. Haleiwa town is worth stopping in — good coffee, açaí bowls, and the legendary Matsumoto Shave Ice, which has been making its shaved ice desserts since 1951. The shrimp trucks at Kahuku, near the eastern end of the North Shore, serve enormous garlic shrimp plates that are among the best cheap meals on the island.