Ask any Argentinian about their favourite part of the country and many will answer: the province of Córdoba. About 800 km northwest of Buenos Aires, this region is where porteños come to escape the capital and breathe mountain air. The Sierras de Córdoba — rolling, scrubby ranges that rarely top 2,800 metres — are laced with rivers, lakes, and small valleys, and the villages tucked into them have become beloved holiday destinations: Villa Carlos Paz on the lake, Mina Clavero with its river pools, the German-flavoured Villa General Belgrano, and the hippie haven of San Marcos Sierra.
The provincial capital, also called Córdoba, is Argentina's second city and a lively university town. Its colonial centro has the Jesuit Block and Cathedral — UNESCO World Heritage architecture — clustered around Plaza San Martín. The student-heavy Nueva Córdoba district to the south runs around Sarmiento Park, and the artisan neighbourhood of Güemes on the western edge of the centre fills up at weekends with crafts markets and small restaurants. The student population keeps the bars and restaurants busy year-round; the city is also the main transport hub for reaching the sierra villages.
Getting around the province is straightforward. Buses fan out from the main terminal in the capital to most villages. Renting a car opens up more remote corners, though Argentine driving standards take some getting used to. Taxis and remises (private cars with drivers) are inexpensive by North American or European standards and a good option for day trips.