Salvador's modern art museum (MAM-BA) is set in the Solar do Unhão, a restored 17th-century sugar warehouse, big house, and chapel complex on the bay south of the centre. The buildings alone are worth the visit — the chapel has one of the more austere baroque interiors in the city — and the collection covers Brazilian modernism with a strong Bahian focus.
The Friday-night jazz sessions on the lawn behind the museum are a long-running fixture of the city's cultural calendar, with a sunset view across the Bay of All Saints. Free entry to the gardens.