Nefta is an oasis town in southwestern Tunisia, close to the Algerian border and on the edge of the Chott el-Jerid — the vast salt lake that shimmers and mirages in the desert heat. It is one of the great religious centres of Tunisia, with over 100 mosques and an important Sufi tradition. The Corbeille, a natural depression at the heart of town filled with thousands of date palms fed by spring water, is one of the most remarkable oases in North Africa: you look down from the rim at a green bowl of palms and mud-brick houses that feels both impossibly lush and deeply ancient.
Nefta is smaller and quieter than its neighbour Tozeur, which tends to attract the tour groups, and that quietness is its main appeal. The old quarter of Ouled el-Hadef is worth exploring on foot, its narrow lanes lined with characteristic geometric brickwork decoration. Star Wars fans may recognise the landscape: the Lars Homestead and Mos Espa sets sit in the desert outside town, free to visit if you can hire a 4x4.
The date harvest in October is the busiest time of year. Getting here from Tunis involves a long bus or shared taxi journey, or a more comfortable flight to Tozeur's small airport, 22 kilometres away.