Cuihu Park (Green Lake)

The most central park in Kunming, Cuihu — Green Lake — is a chain of small lakes, willow-shaded causeways, and pavilions just north of the old city, ringed by tea houses and surrounded by lively neighbourhood streets. It was originally a corner of Dianchi Lake separated from the main body by the city's expansion, and has been a park since the 17th century.

The park is best in the early morning, when retired Kunmingers gather to practise tai chi, dance, sing Yunnanese opera, and play badminton in the small open squares. In late afternoon, families take rented pedalboats out and the tea-houses fill up. In winter, the lake is famously crowded with black-headed gulls — visitors buy bags of feed and the birds will eat from your hand.

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A story
From late October until early March each year, tens of thousands of black-headed gulls fly down from Siberia to overwinter on the lake. The migration only began in 1985, the gulls having previously stopped further north; today feeding them is a ritual of Kunming winter life and bags of bird-feed are sold along the lakeshore.

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