Heilongtan (Black Dragon Pool) Park

Twelve kilometres north of central Kunming, at the foot of Longquan Hill, the Black Dragon Pool is a Daoist temple complex built around a deep limestone spring. The temple is one of the oldest religious sites in the province — a Han-dynasty foundation, repeatedly rebuilt — and is famous for its ancient trees: a Tang-dynasty plum, a Song cypress, and a Ming camellia, all still living and prominently labelled.

The pool itself is the visual centrepiece. The water is improbably clear and dark, and from certain angles you can see the two springs that feed it flowing side by side without mixing. The park around the pool is a popular Sunday outing for older Kunmingers, and in February and March the plum blossom here is one of the best displays in the city.

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The pool is fed by two springs, one clear and one dark, that flow together without mixing — the result, locals say, of the two dragons that live in them refusing to share a bath. The phenomenon is real (a difference in temperature and dissolved minerals keeps the two streams separate for a remarkable distance) and the temple beside the pool has been a sacred site to both since the Han dynasty.

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