French Quarter and Old Railway Station

A small but real fragment of the early-20th-century French concession survives in the streets immediately southeast of the old railway station — a long brick block of the original station building, a cluster of arcaded shop-houses, and the former Banque de l'Indochine office, all dating to around 1910. The buildings are slowly being restored as cafés, galleries, and a small museum of the Kunming–Haiphong railway.

The quarter is not visitor-ready in the way of, say, Shanghai's Bund — there are no signs, no walking trails, and the streets are still mostly used by Kunmingers — but for anyone interested in the city's brief life as a treaty port, it is the most evocative neighbourhood. Best on a weekend morning, when the small craft markets fill the lane outside the old station.

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The metre-gauge Kunming–Haiphong railway was completed by the French in 1910 — at the time, the longest single railway construction project anywhere in the world, threading through 155 tunnels and over 3,000 bridges. The railway connected Kunming to French Indochina for the first time and made the city, until then largely cut off, a Burmese-Vietnamese trading port in the highlands. Sections of the line still operate today, mostly for freight.

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