Around 250 kilometres northeast of Kunming, in Dongchuan District, a remarkable patchwork of farming hills runs across the high plateau. The soil here is a deep brick-red, almost crimson in places, and it is sown with the green of wheat, the yellow of rape blossom, and the white of buckwheat in alternating fields — producing a landscape of vivid, almost abstract colour that has become one of the most photographed places in southwest China.
The drive from Kunming takes around four hours each way. Several small villages — Damakan, Luoxiagou, Yueliangtian — run guesthouses for photographers. The colours are at their best in May (rapeseed) and September (red soil after fresh ploughing). Doable as a long day trip, more comfortable with one overnight in the area.