The Xinyi Road flagship of the world-conquering Taiwanese chain — the original branch, in operation continuously since 1972 — is still the place to eat xiaolongbao in Taipei. The signature item is the pork soup dumpling, served at scalding heat in steamer baskets of ten, with paper-thin pleated wrappers said to require exactly eighteen folds.
The Xinyi branch is small and the queue can be substantial; expect to wait 30-90 minutes at peak times. The menu also runs to truffle xiaolongbao, drunken chicken, hot-and-sour soup, taro-paste dumplings, and the classic shrimp-and-pork shumai. Order a basket of the original pork dumplings, the wonton soup, and you have a Taipei lunch. The dozen-plus branches around the city are quicker if the queue is daunting.