Mountain and Sea House — Shanhai Lou — occupies a converted Japanese-era timber house off Anhe Road, with a small intimate dining room of bare wood and rice-paper screens. The kitchen serves a single seasonal chef's tasting menu drawing on Taiwanese ingredients and traditional techniques, refined for a modern palate.
Past menus have run to mountain pork belly braised with stinky tofu, shacha-marinated wagyu with bamboo shoots, sea-urchin and miso custards, taro-paste desserts. The wine list is mostly natural and is one of the most interesting in Taipei. Booking essential, and dinner is the only service.