Litoměřice is one of the softer faces of North Bohemia. The old royal town sits above the Elbe in a fertile patch of vineyards and orchards, with the volcanic cones of the České středohoří rising beyond the roofs. It feels much older and more gracious than the industrial towns that dominate parts of the region.
The centre is compact and rewarding. Peace Square has arcades, gables, the old town hall and the sgraffito-covered House at the Black Eagle. A short walk away, St Stephen's Cathedral stands on its own hill, giving the town a second focus and better views over the river country.
Litoměřice also works because it has layers. The Regional Museum covers the town and surrounding landscape, while the lanes between the square, the walls and the cathedral keep turning up small Renaissance and Baroque details. Terezín is close enough to shape many visits, but Litoměřice is not just a base for it; the town has enough of its own texture for a spare day.