Les Andelys sits deep in one of the great loops of the Seine, backed by high chalk cliffs that give it a drama unusual for Normandy. The town is really two in one: Petit-Andely hugs the riverbank below the ruins of Château Gaillard, while Grand-Andely spreads inland around the church of Notre-Dame.
Château Gaillard is the main draw. Richard the Lionheart built this fortress in a single year in 1196 to block the French advance on Rouen, and its ruined walls still command a spectacular view over the Seine valley. The climb up is short but steep, and the panorama from the top is one of the finest in the region.
In town, the Collégiale Notre-Dame mixes Gothic and Renaissance styles, and the Musée Nicolas Poussin honours the painter who was born here in 1594. Les Andelys also makes a good base for riverboat trips along the Seine, with several operators running scenic cruises through the surrounding loops and cliffs.