St. Maria Lyskirchen is one of Cologne's twelve Romanesque churches, but it feels more intimate than the better-known giants. Set close to the Rhine, it survived the city's turbulent history with important medieval fabric intact, including ceiling frescoes that are among its chief treasures.
It is a good stop for travellers who want to understand Cologne beyond the cathedral. The church is close enough to the riverside and Chocolate Museum to fold into a walk, and its quieter scale makes the Romanesque architecture easier to read.