Anafiotika is a tiny neighbourhood of whitewashed Cycladic houses pressed against the north-east slope of the Acropolis, hidden inside the Plaka and easily missed. Narrow stepped lanes, bougainvillea, geraniums in pots, cats sleeping in doorways — the place feels as if a chunk of Mykonos had drifted to the foot of the citadel.
The neighbourhood has perhaps twenty inhabited houses. Walk up from Plaka through Stratonos street, follow signs, and lose yourself in the lanes. There are no shops or restaurants — Anafiotika is residential, and the residents would like to keep it that way. Tread quietly.