The National Museum of Contemporary Art, usually known as EMST, gives Athens a sharp modern counterweight to its ancient-heavy museum circuit. It occupies the converted Fix brewery, a building whose industrial scale suits large installations and changing exhibitions.
It is most rewarding if you already have the Acropolis and the archaeological museums in perspective. EMST shows Athens as a working contemporary capital, with Greek and international art asking different questions from the marbles and temples across town.