Carouge is Geneva's bohemian quarter — technically a separate commune, but in practice the city's most characterful neighbourhood. It was planned in the 18th century by the King of Sardinia as a rival to Calvinist Geneva, and the difference shows: where Geneva is orderly and restrained, Carouge is relaxed, colourful, and full of independent shops, artisan workshops, and small restaurants.
The low, arcaded buildings along Rue Saint-Joseph and the surrounding streets have an almost Italian feel — piazzas rather than places, terraces rather than tearooms. The Saturday market on Place du Marché is one of the best in the Geneva area. Carouge is where Genevois go to eat, drink, and browse without the formality of the old town. It is an easy tram ride from the city centre and a welcome change of pace.