Across the harbour at Gosport, reached by the short Gosport Ferry from the Portsmouth Hard. The museum tells the history of the Royal Navy submarine service from the Edwardian Holland 1 — Britain's first submarine, recovered from the seabed off Plymouth — to nuclear-powered boats from the Cold War.
The centrepiece is HMS Alliance, a 1947 patrol submarine in dry dock that you can walk through; the guided tour, given by ex-submariners, is excellent and not to be skipped. Allow two hours including the ferry.