Ensenada is a Pacific port city about 100 kilometers south of the US border in Baja California. It is a working town first and a tourist destination second, which is part of its appeal. The Malecon stretches along the bay, lined with seafood stalls where fish tacos are made fresh from the morning catch. Cruise ships dock here regularly, but walk a few blocks inland and you are in a Mexican city that exists entirely for itself.
The surrounding area is what sets Ensenada apart. The Valle de Guadalupe, about 30 kilometres northeast, has become Mexico's premier wine region, with dozens of small vineyards and some genuinely excellent restaurants scattered along a dusty valley. South of town, La Bufadora is a natural blowhole where ocean swells force seawater through a narrow rock channel, sending spray 20 meters into the air.
Ensenada is at its best in spring and fall, when the weather is warm but not hot and the wine harvest is either approaching or in full swing. The city has a long tradition of street food — look for ceviche tostadas, grilled clams, and the fish tacos that arguably originated here. Hussong's Cantina, the oldest bar in Baja, is the place to start an evening on Avenida Ruiz. The Hotel Riviera del Pacífico, a grand Spanish Colonial building on the Malecon, houses a bar and cultural centre worth a look even if you're not staying.